Is it any wonder that we love Vitamin C? Not only is it a powerful infection fighter as a supplement, it also has incredible benefits when used topically as a skin lightener, brightener, a powerful antioxidant, and collagen booster. The problem is you could be putting “empty promises” on your face. Finding a stable form of Vitamin C in a skincare product is no guarantee.
The first time I became aware of this issue was when I discovered a now-discontinued line called Awake at NYC’s Henri Bendel many years ago. (The beauty department was, of course, a former stomping ground.)
Awake produced a Vitamin C treatment powder that melted on contact with skin. It was a really cool product, but the information that came with it was even more interesting. Essentially, it let me in on a little secret that most forms of vitamin C lose their efficacy somewhere between the time of manufacturing and hitting store shelves—and sometimes even sooner—so that the end result no longer works. You may think you’re getting a potent Vitamin C product, but in the end it’s just pretty packaging, if that, with few benefits.
The problem is, how to identify a reliable source of Vitamin C in skincare products? To answer, I turned to Blissoma founder Julie Longyear so that she could address our most pressing questions. Her background in chemistry and as a formulator makes her uniquely positioned to understand which form of Vitamin C is most effective on a label and which ones won’t last at all. Who are we kidding? It’s also my dedication to her Vitamin C serum, Timeless Reconstruction Serum, that made me reach out to her because only someone who knows what they’re doing could produce this rich and effective blend.
By the time you finish reading this post, you’ll be armed with insider intel so the next time you pick up a product touting Vitamin C, you’ll know you’re getting your money’s worth.
What does topical Vitamin C do for the skin?
Vitamin C is a skin lightener, antioxidant, and exfoliant. It stimulates collagen production in addition to lessening wrinkling and fine lines.
Does it make sense to isolate Vitamin C for skin or is it best combined with other vitamins?
The effects of Vitamin C can be multiplied when used properly with other compounds, so combining it can be really great. Combining Vitamin C, E and ferulic acid has been shown to actually double the photoprotection to skin. These compounds work synergistically and enhance one another. Vitamin C actually renews Vitamin E even after it has been oxidized.
When a product calls itself a “Vitamin C” product, what are the markers that it’s in a stable form that skin can utilize?
My personal recommendation is that people steer clear of any liquid product that has just plain Ascorbic Acid listed on the label. Ascorbic Acid is the most basic, water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is also incredibly unstable and prone to oxidation. Temperature and oxygen exposure are both factors in this, but it’s hard to prevent. In laboratory samples tested of refined Ascorbic Acid and grape juice there were losses of up to 50% of the pure Vitamin after just 240 minutes (4 hours). That’s barely making it through manufacturing! While some brands have developed buffer systems that do somewhat protect the integrity of Vitamin C, it still always degrades. It just gives you a bit more time to use the item, but most brands run big batches of products and then have to ship to a warehouse, then to the retailer, then it sits for a few months there, then in your bathroom cabinet…. so you can see how that would basically use up any extended shelf life and be giving you only oxidized Vitamin C. (Source)
If the product is using Ascorbic Acid in a powdered form then that’s fine, as it doesn’t get hydrated until the minute you use it, meaning it doesn’t have the chance to degrade. Similarly any natural source Vitamin C ingredients like Acerola Cherry or Camu Camu should be powdered as they’ll have the same stability problem if they are extracted into water and would be useless by the time they reach the consumer.
The manufactured forms of Vitamin C that are stabilized that are available are compounds like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetradexylhexyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. These all have different percentage recommendations and some are soluble in water and some in oil depending on what the Ascorbic part of the molecule is complexed with.
What are the signs that a Vitamin C product won’t be effective?
Color change is the biggest sign that the Vitamin C has oxidized. It can create a yellow or amber color to the product, so if your serum that started off clear is now yellow it is likely not great to use anymore.
I know that with Blissoma, you’re scrupulous in selecting ingredients in their most bioavailable form. Which products are rich in Vitamin C and what makes them different from other “Vitamin C” labeled formulas?
Our products that contain Vitamin C are our Bright Eye Vitalizing Nutrient Serum, Timeless Vitamin C Reconstruction Serum, and Glow Good Earth Exfoliant Powder. Each product contains a different form specifically suited to what we were working to accomplish with the recipes.
Bright is made to go near the eye area so we used the Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate because it could be used at a very low percentage due to its time release properties. The eye area is sensitive and we didn’t want to overwhelm that area with something overly acidic. That particular molecule is deconstructed at need by enzymes in the skin so the skin is only taking in the dosage it can actually use at any given time.
[Note: Bright, $56, is one eye product that I keep on hand and have repurchased because it absorbs easily, allowing me to wear eye makeup without oil slicks and smudging that greasier eye products cause, and because it instantly firms and awakens my eye area.]
For Timeless this was an entirely oil based serum, so we used Ascorbyl Palmitate which is an ester (oil friendly) form of Vitamin C. Timeless is best used at night and the Ascorbyl Palmitate is able to penetrate deeply into the skin partly due to its own structure and then we also included soy lecithin. The deeper the C can get the better the overall results. This form of Vitamin C is not acidic at all either because it is an ester so there it does not irritate skin at all. This product can be used on irritated and damaged skin and it will help rebuild from the deepest layers up.
[Note: Timeless, $59, is another repeat purchase and product that I’m devoted to, particularly in winter, because it’s a lipid-rich blend that offers superior moisture and protection.]
Glow is an exfoliant product and is sold in powdered form, so in that product we used the powdered Ascorbic Acid so we could control the exact percentage. The acid properties of it help loosen the “glue” that holds skin cells together so that they are more easily sloughed off. It is also hitting the skin at full strength as it is only hydrated the moment of use. This form can be a little more challenging for some skin types so we usually recommend this product for people that do not have rosacea, eczema or any serious inflammation issues. They really shouldn’t be doing this kind of exfoliant anyway. Glow is well suited to people with intact, sluggish skin that needs a boost.
[Note: Glow, $40, is a first-time purchase for me and I’m enjoying the versatility as both an exfoliating powder to add to my cleanser or as a leave on mask. A potential repurchase, though I have a few similar products, so we’ll see when I run out.]
Aside from the products above (which I actually had on hand before reaching out to Julie for this post), these are my top picks for reliable Vitamin C:
- Marie Veronique Vitamin C+E+Ferulic Acid Serum — this pro formula feels more like a gel-serum that absorbs instantly and works seamlessly layered under other serums to boost sun protection by day and rebuild collagen by night (I own a few sample sizes, but not the full size)
- Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum — I wasn’t expecting much from this watery serum but I love it! It’s light as air, layers really well under other serums and creams, and imparts a brightening effect. Who knew?
- One Love Organics Vitamin C Body Oil — this skin-refining body oil contains Vitamin C Ester, Papaya Enzymes and organic Shea Oil to deeply hydrate and gently exfoliate while leaving skin radiant and deliciously scented
- Jillian Wright Vitamin C Powder —can be added to any serum and is powered with antioxidant rich acai berry and antibacterial cranberry to fight free radicals and reveal luminous skin
- Leahlani Skincare Meli Glow Nectar Mask — transports me with its stunning aroma and is loaded with vitamin C rich fruits (strawberry, guava, and rose hips) and a Vitamin C Ester to give skin that lit from within glow
- La Bella Figura Modern Radiance Concentrate — this Vitamin C gel-cream is, in a word, fabulous! I’ve got a small sample size and can say that it’s worth the splurge. It derives its Vitamin C from kakadu plum, a whole and natural source containing flavonoids and phytochemicals with as high as 3200-5000mg/100g levels (compared with 50mg/100g for oranges).
- Odacité C for Colette — another sample that I went gaga for. This Vitamin C + superfood booster is powered by 15% vit. C, to stimulate collagen synthesis, plus a super-food trio: wheatgrass, acai, and goji berries to slow down the aging process and neutralize free radicals generated by stress, fatigue and pollution.
- Orgaid Vitamin C Revitalizing Organic Sheet Mask — it’s in my cart at AILLEA as we speak and I’ll let you know how it is once I’ve tried it but Kristen Arnett loves the yogurt mask and raves about it in this video about treating super dry skin and puffiness.
Want to know more? I’ve read numerous posts on the topic of Vitamin C on kimberlyloc.com that talk about the need for stabilizing ferulic acid and vitamin E in a product containing Vitamin C, so if this is a topic that intrigues you, definitely head over there to read up. And if you really want to geek out, you need to check out an actual laboratory style test of Vitamin C levels and ferulic acid used as a stabilizer. (Thanks, Julie!)
What are your favorite Vitamin C containing products? What results have you noticed from using them?
*Some affiliate links in post for products I would recommend anyway. I purchased all the products in this post. Full Disclosure.
Thanks for this really insightful article! Wondering if it matters that the Blissoma products are in clear glass containers. You always hear that the light isn’t good for actives. Curious about this choice, and how it effects the vitamin C.
Hi Kim! We don’t recommend that our products be stored in direct sunlight, such as on a window sill, but our shelf lives of 18-24 months reflect the optimal usage time for each recipe when kept at room temperature and out of immediate sunlight. Something like a medicine cabinet or bathroom cabinet will already keep the items shaded.
We also like the clear glass because it does enable clients to see if there has been any color change, as then they can deal with that. When something is in darker glass it can obscure changes and honestly I feel people are more likely to end up using something past when it is optimal because they only see what is pumped out and that is not always the best way to see changes to color. If an oil started out intense orange or green or amber and now is lighter then you know it has aged and that you might want to move on. If it is obscured by the bottle you may not know, and everything ages whether you can see it or not.
Realistically I think either type of bottle can be fine, and the most important part is how the client treats the item once it is in their hands. We store products in a temperature controlled building or in cold storage til it reaches you (and generally in a box as well so light is not reaching it then) and then you take it out and begin using it. Most people use their items within 1-6 months which if you are storing it as mentioned above out of direct light there is no need to be concerned.
Julie – I’m very excited to try your Glow powder!!!
Love vitamin C products! I’ve been fortunate enough to have tried all of the Blissoma products, the Orgaid mask, Marie Veronique, and Mad Hippie serum. They’re all great! As for another powder C formula option, I read about this affordable serum booster on another blog and am currently using it: https://www.sallybskinyummies.com/products/antioxidant-skin-boost
It takes just a bit of mixing with your toner/serum before applying, but it’s nice to have an added bit of antioxidant protection. I really enjoy how vitamin C protects my skin during the day and makes my skin glow. Thank you for all of the various vitamin C options on this list!
There are other forms of Vitamin C such as Sodium Ascorbyl Palmitate that are note even mentioned here. Sodium Ascorbyl Palmitate has been found to 90% active even after 2 years in a jar. These are not the only ones that are stable. I am surprised this was not mentioned.
My other comment is that just because L-Ascorbic Acid is notoriously unstable does not mean that formulas containing it lack efficacy and are “useless”. Skinceuticals which is a classic example contains 15% Vitamin C and it is stable for 6 weeks post opening. They are designed to be used in this time frame.
I am speaking from a cosmetic chemists point of view here. While some believe that the ester derivatives of vitamin c are preferable in formulation, others remain committed to the use of L- ascorbic acid. Studies performed by Pinnell suggest that topical L-ascorbic acid can be formulated in a manner that ensures stabilization and enhances permeation. These studies demonstrated that L-ascorbic acid can be delivered across the stratum corneum as long as the ionic charge on the molecule is removed. The maximal concentration of L-ascorbic acid for percutaneous absorption was 20% and, curiously, higher levels failed to increase absorption. Daily application of 15% L-ascorbic acid at a pH of 3.2 increased skin L-ascorbic acid levels 20-fold and tissue levels were saturated after 3 days. By contrast, topical 13% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 10% ascorbyl-6-palmitate failed to increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid according to this study.
So don’t throw your L-Ascorbic Acid out just yet.
Jacine Greenwood
Dip of Cosmetic Chemistry
I’ve been reading about the best pH level of ascorbic acid is 3.2. What does this mean? That the formula should be made to the specific pH level or that the skin should be at a certain pH level when applying your product? Should I be testing my products for pH levels? I have pretty tough skin, tingling and most acids don’t bother me at all. These products seem to be an ongoing controversy and each company claims to know better than the other, or at the very least there is so much contradiction. I love the one product I’m using but it is a pretty steep price to do nothing but feel good to apply. One of the water based C , Ferulic Acid +E serums I use never changed color when I left a dropper full in an open dish on my window sill for 30 hours. Does that mean the Vitamin C is not effective? Or does it mean that they have made a formula that stabilizes the C for at least that long? Thanks for your knowledge!
I meant to say SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) not Palmitate.
Hello Jacine,
Thank you for the addition of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to the list of stabilized ingredients. My suggestions were not meant to be exhaustive, but moreso simply a range of options that may show up in labels so that people know what types of names to look for. I’m happy you extended the list as this will help even further.
Re: L-Ascorbic Acid in its pure form, if you can use it while fresh then great, however most people are purchasing products that have been sitting on a shelf somewhere for a long time, or have a tendency to keep them in their cabinet for a long time as well. If people are sure they’ve found a brand that is tending to their stability, and they have dedication to making sure to use the item while fresh then that is great. That level of transparency and trust can be hard to find in the cosmetics industry, and shoppers do not have the technical knowledge that you possess to be able to determine which is a quality product and which is not. So it becomes much trickier for the average person.
Powdered products remove a lot of this need to be so focused, though. L-Ascorbic acid at the PH you are suggesting can also be quite hard on many skin types given that it is so acidic. Some people may not tolerate the stinging or such aggressive exfoliation well.
This is why we usually recommend a combination of approaches. Something like our Glow can be used twice a week and then followed up with another, gentler Vitamin C product to sustain the activity without aggravating the skin.
It is all endlessly fascinating, isn’t it? 🙂
Thanks, Jacine. I’ve added Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to the post.
Thank you for this post Sarita, maybe I missed it in the ingredients list but I can’t find the form of Vitamin C for the LBF serum?
Hi Sarita: Great and insightful article as always. I have a question: do you know if the skin turns more sensitive to the sun like using retinol/rentin A?
I’ve become addicted to Vitamin C for my skin and have been testing a few to see which works best for me. I tried the Skin Deva 20%Vit. C (+F+E) in hopes it would be a dupe for SkinCeuticals that everyone raves about. Ive had the bottle for over a month. No color change at all, like how it applies but haven’t used it enough to see any difference. I also sampled , then purchased Clinique’s C powdered face wash. It’s not green (sorry) but I love this application method and am looking for a green alternative. They also have a C booster which comes in a package that only mixes the powder and serum together at application – pretty cool! Ok…Drunk Elephant. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the C Firma. I like the smell, I like the oil/gel formula, I like the glow it gives. I am so on the fence about this product. I want to believe that when they say color changes have to do with the tumeric and not the C but I’m suspicious now reading your article. Not so much that I don’t believe them, just that maybe the C never had a running chance to begin with. So I’m on a mission to research if the formula has enough benefits on its own aside from the C to make it worth using (not cheap!!) as I just have grown to look forward to applying this every morning. Whew – long comment, but thank you for a very informative post — I just discovered you and I’m going through some of your older posts and really enjoying them. I found you because of my interest in Siam products!