The response to my rant in Friday’s post has been incredible. Thank you for the feedback on The Hub of Clean Living and on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. You made it clear that my words echo your convictions as well.
Of course, as with all opinion pieces, there are those who differ. Some of the comments mentioned that I am “demonizing” Drunk Elephant. To clarify, I am not interested in diminishing the company or the founder, Tiffany Masterson, whom I call out in my rant, nor am I apologizing for it.
Masterson commands the attention of the media and tends to feed it a viewpoint that does not accurately reflect the natural world, though it does make ripe click bait. It is to that end that I call her out on spreading misinformation to the press—not on the efficacy of her brand.
I use many products that are formulated without essential oils. Sometimes that is exactly what my skin wants. There is a contrast in the way labels like KYPRIS and Osmia choose to promote their essential oil free products that does not malign essential oils, but rather offers them as an option for skin that can not tolerate them.
The W Magazine interview with Masterson that I quoted in my last post contains flagrant errors not only regarding essential oils, but also regarding natural skincare. I believe the cumulative effects of erroneous statements, when left unchallenged, can and will damage the industry. The question is, where to begin unpacking the behemoth?
In the name of brevity, let’s set aside the part where Masterson seems to point a finger at natural skincare for causing sensitive skin, as well as numerous other assertions pertaining to “enflamed” skin. I will also not be addressing the fact that she dismisses organic ingredients as not “a priority” for her line, since the term is “overused” and meaningless, although the tangible advantages of organic and pesticide-free ingredients are ignored (and a worthy topic to cover in a future post).
Instead, a good place to start would be to address the confusion over the use of essential oils in skincare. It’s also clear from the following comment that we need to offer a correct definition of the word “volatile” within this context: “Essential oils are volatile,” she told W. “People don’t realize that. With these oils on your skin all day, your skin cannot function the way it should.”
It’s one thing for Masterson to say that her skin had a reaction to essential oils as a reason for launching a brand without them—which is perfectly legitimate—and quite another to repeatedly belittle a therapeutic modality that has been in use for thousands of years.
Interestingly, W Magazine isn’t the only one to publish a comment of hers that raises an eyebrow. In this article on BYRDIE, she says, “When you really think about it, the only reason, in my opinion, that essential oils are included in a formulation is to scent the product.” This time, the article takes her to task and questions her answer. The verdict on essential oil use in skincare, the author concludes, is far from black and white.
As Amy Galper, founder of the New York Institute of Aromatherapy, says here, “Yes, nice aromas have a way of making us feel, but aromatherapy goes beyond fragrance, to a scientific discipline as authentic as any herbal medicine. Based on the molecular properties and behavior of essential oils, it supports our innate ability to heal ourselves—making it a powerful ally in treating mind, body, and emotions.”
So, I must beg to differ with Masterson’s opinion yet again. The aroma of essential oils is merely the color of the tapestry, but the cloth is far richer. Even if the benefits of oils were merely distilled to their scent, the fragrance alone would have the capacity to heal on a deeper level. Sadly, this brand founder appears to renounce all of their therapeutic qualities.
Still, Drunk Elephant is not the only line to avoid essential oils, and some people do need to steer clear of them. Does that mean essential oils are to blame for sensitive skin, as Masterson suggests? Must we abandon them entirely as part of healthier skincare?
Fortunately, Laurel Shaffer, the founder of Laurel Whole Plant Organics and a trained herbalist, botanist, and sommelier, has agreed to help us sort through the dizzying information—and misinformation—that circulates around essential oils. As she says so well:
“For any plant based line to be against essential oils, they must also be against using plants to some degree, since essential oils are found in all plants.”
For the remainder of this post, these are her words illuminating her extensive experience and research. By the end, you will have a better idea of how essential oils work and how to use them wisely.
Laurel Shaffer’s woke talk on essential oils
“Plants are medicine.”
As anyone who knows me will tell you, I am a whole-hearted plant advocate. I pretty much think plants are the answer to all the world’s problems. That said, plants are medicine. Plants have to be understood and processed in a manner to which they can help solve problems—just like medicine; and it’s very possible for them to get misused and therefore misunderstood. Essential oils fall into this misused category far too often, and that is for several reasons.
How are essential oils misused?
The first reason is that essential oils truly are the most powerful and potent form of plant medicine that I am aware of. Because essential oils are so incredibly powerful, it only makes sense that some people might be sensitive to their potency, especially if they are being used improperly. In addition to essential oils being the most potent form of plant medicine, they are also the most popular form of plant medicine—thanks to MLMs (multi-level marketing) they are now present in almost every home in America! I feel very comfortable with essential oils, but that is only because I studied plants extensively prior to using them regularly, and because I am highly intuitive, and I listen to my own body when one might not be right for my body at any given time.
“I listen to my own body when one [essential oil] might not be right for my body at any given time.”
Do essential oils irritate the skin?
To say that all essential oils cause inflammation and irritation is absolutely silly. To give a very specific example, our line has a .25% reported reaction rate, and we rely on essential oils in every product that we make. The key is that we utilize them at incredibly low percentages, often lower than what they are found at in whole raw plants themselves. We stay away from essential oils that are common heat inducers, intensely drying, or intense circulatory stimulants; and we take every precaution to ensure that our essential oils are incredibly high quality.
Many essential oils are adulterated
High quality essential oils are extremely difficult to come by, which to many should come as a surprise. Thanks to my background as a sommelier, I have a powerful nose for detecting any level of oxidation, specific farming techniques, seasonal and harvest specifics, and most importantly ANY trace of synthetic compounds. Unfortunately, synthetic compounds are far too common. Not only do I detect them in essential oils regularly, but I also detect them in other products constantly, and I don’t think the brand owner has any idea.
Brand owners may have no idea that the essential oils they are using contain synthetic compounds.
Two ways that I detect synthetic adulteration are: 1) a sharp shooting pain in my head when I take the first whiff and 2) staying power. Real essential oils do not have a lot of staying power, with the exception of a few resinous plants. They absorb quickly into our skin, and shouldn’t smell for longer than an hour or so. Evaluating the source and purity of an essential oil is incredibly important to reducing reactivity.
[For further reference, check out my post about GC/MS testing.]
What does volatile mean when referring to essential oils? (It’s not what you think!)
In terms of the chemistry of essential oils and what they actually are: to make essential oils you simply need fresh plants and boiling water. That fact alone is enough to tell me this is a natural, simple, and ancient process that feels safe and authentic to my heart. Essential oils are made up of hundreds of different constituents or compounds, all found within whole raw plants themselves. These compounds are “volatile,” which simply means they evaporate easily, almost more like an alcohol would than a fatty oil. All whole plants contain essential oils within them in varying percentages, because they are a part of the plant itself.
“All whole plants contain essential oils within them in varying percentages, because they are a part of the plant itself.”
When you rub a mint leaf between your fingers, and then your hands smell like mint—that is the essential oil on your hands. Often those percentages that the essential oils are found in the plant itself are higher than what a formulator would use to make a product. When a product contains whole plants, that means it also contains essential oils in small amounts. Therefore, for any plant based line to be against essential oils, they must also be against using plants to some degree, since again essential oils are found in all plants.
What are essential oil isolates and how are they different from essential oils?
In the BYRDIE article, Masterson indicates she was sensitive to essential oil isolates. [From the article:”‘When I tried to introduce other products in my routine, like serums, oils, or sunscreens, my skin would react negatively immediately. I started paying attention to the ingredients in these products, and I figured out that there were a few names I was seeing over and over again: limonene, linalool, geraniol, and more.’ What were those ingredients? Essential oils—yes, the same essential oils you’ve been holding in such high regard…”]
There is a big difference between essential oils and isolates; the biggest one being that isolates are typically synthetic, and they are just one chemical compound as opposed to a complex and balanced whole plant. The owner and lead chemist of Pacific Institute of Aromatherapy shared with me that it wasn’t even possible to create a pure isolated compound from essential oils that does not contain synthetics. That said, a consumer has no way of knowing whether or not a brand is adding synthetic isolates to their products or if they are just communicating about potential allergens like the EU suggests. [THE HUB: The EU requires them to be labeled separately when in higher concentrations.] Janny Organically’s recent article on greenwashing discusses Isolates in more detail.
Thank you, Laurel, for sharing your extensive background with essential oils to further this discussion. My takeaway from this post is that the quality and percentage of essential oils vary in every product line and not every brand knows how to distinguish their purity. That could indeed contribute to someone having issues with a particular brand. Nonetheless, there are safe ways to employ these essences that do not disrupt skin, but in fact support and heal it. Once again, the conclusion is not black and white—and it’s essential to question anyone who says that it is.
Let us know in the comments, what is your biggest takeaway from what Laurel shared?
What a great follow up to Friday’s piece! Essential oils are one of many powerful tools available to brand formulators and I love that Laurel speaks to the importance of quality, education, and moderation. “Traditional” Western medicine is powerful and no one would fault you for saying those remedies should be treated with respect and prescribed by experts who understand correct dosage and potential interactions. That just seems like an intuitive approach and I wonder how much MLM companies and the widening availability of EOs have done to undermine the truth that they need to be treated with the same respect and expertise as any other healing ingredient?
Also, this pieces makes me so happy that I recently ordered my first-ever Laurel WPO product (Anti-Inflammatory Serum!) to deal with some increased redness and sensitivity. I love knowing how much thought and care goes into the formula!
Sarita, thank you for these informative posts. I am someone who is very sensitive to certain essential oils in skincare and cosmetics, and after several years of trial and error (and reactions), I’ve learned what oils to avoid. For me, anything with rose, other heavy floral scents, or citrus cause redness and irritation. I am also sensitive to hydrosols, both by themselves and in products.
I have a rare form of scleroderma, an autoimmune disease, that has been successfully treated with medication. When I react to a medication, my doctor will advise me to stop it immediately, and I do the same thing with essential oils and other natural ingredients that irritate my skin.
One aspect of the MLM-based essential oil brands that bothers me is the spiritual/metaphysical link. I’ve had several well-meaning friends tell me that, when an oil irritates my skin, that means I need to “work through” my feelings and issues with it. I find that completely counter to anything my doctor would advise, and I refuse to use a product that causes an adverse reaction. Essential oils are wonderful, but they can affect everyone differently, and I think it’s very important for those of us who use natural products to understand what ingredients we are using.
Sarita,
You continue to knock it out of the park with your posts. I get so frustrated when I read about essential oils in situations like above, but also in regards to misuse. I am currently in school studying holistic health and herbalism, learning about plant medicine and essential oils are key parts of the curriculum. I feel like the many MLM companies are spreading false and sometime even dangerous information about how to correctly use essential oils. Essential oils are not created equally, and must be used with care!
It’s great to hear that you’re in school learning how to use herbs and plants wisely, Chelsea. Not enough people educate themselves adequately before formulating or going around and spreading misinformation. Keep up the great work! You are so right that essential oils must be used with care and wisdom. XO
Great Article!
Thank you, Dominyka! Glad you liked it. 🙂
This is a rant about facial oils in general, and not just essential oils.
Frankly, Sarita, I have a bone to pick with quite a few green beauty brands and bloggers who promote them. I have dry skin to begin with, and after a couple years of using oils and oil-based balms (as 95% of the green beauty world advocates), I have discovered that my moisture barrier has been decimated. This also happened to my mum this past winter and her skin is less dry than mine. Side-note: The harsh northeast winters have certainly done their part. It was only when I discovered Roccoco Botanicals (shoutout to Celestyna of Moss for introducing the brand to the world at large) that I realised that one also needs water and moisturising elements to maintain a balance. I don’t believe that one ought to shed oils altogether, but no way in hell is it a good idea to only use products that are made primarily of oil. Balms are supposedly good winter moisturisers even though they are _still_ made from oil, and contain no hydrating elements. Brands like Laurel, Vintner’s Daughter, Uma Oils, Mahalo, and so many others, are, in opinion, doing us women a disservice by heavily promoting oils as though they can be a replacement for a more water-based moisturiser. It is only now that I’m starting to see more attention being paid to moisture barriers (see Marie Veronique’s latest barrier serum). To be clear, no, I have not thrown away my facial oils from these brands. I believe they can be and are useful. But I certainly intend to use them more sparingly, and to incorporate them into a routine that contains niacinamide and hyaluronic acid so my skin doesn’t shrivel up and get clogged up from oils alone.
I highly suggest that people check out Roccoco’s instagram and this useful blog post: http://mosskincare.com/which-is-better-for-acne-prone-skin-face-oil-or-moisturizer/
I’m sorry to hear that about your skin, Vanessa, and have come to the same realization as you have regarding hydration. It’s a topic that I’ve covered on my blog many times largely because there is so much confusion around hydration versus moisture retention and protection. Only water-containing products can hydrate skin (water can mean aloe vera or hydrosols too). That is why most lines that introduce oils and balms also release a toning mist to be used in conjunction with the waterless products. Personally, I always use a hydrating serum either mixed in with my oil serum or layered. My skin does better with that too. I do find that with all skincare, there’s a period of trial and error as we become familiar with the uniqueness of our skin and its changing needs. There is never a one-size-fits-all formula. I hope that your skin is doing better now that you found what works for you. It is such a relief when that happens! Thanks for your rant.
Thank you Vanessa. I am so glad that we have been able to help you through education.
Wow…essential oils do not cause sensitive skin at all. When used correctly they can be a great healing modality. Yes some are sensitive to them, however that does not mean they do not have a place nor are their medicinal qualities of benefit for the skin because they are. The view that essential oils create sensitive skins is extremist to say the least. There are many other ingredients being used which are causing more issues than aromatherapy oils.
Preach! Thanks, Jacine, for sharing. It’s good to hear it from your perspective as a formulator and skin guru, since you work with many skin types.
Thank you ladies for putting this together. I really enjoy hearing from Laurel as I feel her products speak of her expertise in dealing with plants. I loved reading her comment on how plants are medicine and should be treated with care and caution. Couldn’t agree more!
Agreed, Marie. That one line “plants are medicine” says it all. Laurel is such a trusted voice in our green community. Thank you for your comment.
Hi Sarita,
Thank you for this post. I’m definitely not against essential oils in skincare but I often find myself overwhelmed and confused about what products are safe to use – even more so when products have a proprietary blend of EOs, since I can’t attempt to research undisclosed ingredients. (I do use products that contain EOs including Osmia Organics Linden Rose Hand Cream and Josh Rosebrook Nourish Shampoo, for example. But honestly, I’m still confused!)
The issue that has been on my mind the most lately is which products are safe for expectant and nursing mothers. I’ve been trying to change out my products over time to cleaner ones but since I’m considering pursuing motherhood in the next few years I want to make choices that would be compatible with that period in my life.
I know there are mixed schools of thought with respect to using products that contain diluted EOs but I’m concerned about the cumulative exposure from EOs being present in multiple products I use. I don’t have a lot of knowledge in this area, so I’m not sure what the safest choices are.
Do you have any knowledge or advice to share on this part of the larger EO question, or recommendations on products that are safe for pregnancy/nursing?
Thanks!
Great post!
Just wanted to add a few thoughts. Drunk Elephant is not averse to using actives which are isolated chemical constituents such as the Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid that appear in their “TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum”. Essential oils can be viewed similarly as less processed actives (as Laurel pointed out they are extracted through distillation of whole plant materials) that need to be judiciously dosed in a product. They can be highly complex; rose has around four HUNDRED naturally occurring chemical constituents that account for scent and other properties (anti-microbial, anti-viral, lanitive skin soothing etc.). I like to view essential oils as the immune system of the plant that helps resist insects, mold, bacterial invasion. With that in mind, a leave on product should not include these potent allies at high concentrations. After years of working with these materials I’ve settled on incorporating them at a 0.15% concentration and find that they are effective that way. EO’s are extremely potent, so even a low concentration is relatively high compared to how they appear in a plant. There were products on the market a few years ago that used EO’s as a preservative system. Only certain EO’s could be used (like oregano and thyme) and they had to be used at a 4% concentration or higher to be effective. That is crazy sauce! Depending on the essential oils used that would be the equivalent of a cologne or eau de toilette strength concentration. For a leave on skin product that is simply too much. In addition, formulators need to know about the basic composition of the essential oils they are using so they can avoid or reduce exposure to potentially irritating constituents such as geraniol, linalool, etc. HTH!
Thank you, Maggie. You always have words of wisdom and experience to share. I appreciate you and your in-depth knowledge! Lovely to see you here again. XO
Absolutely agree with this post. Some essential oils have been shown to do more than just “scenting” a product! Our favorite and first-and-foremost is the prickly pear seed oil, which is naturally-derived and has quite a light scent–still a powerhouse. Thanks for the info, Sarita!
Hi!! I’m a little worried and confuse about photosensitive essential oils. I read that some citrics are, but i also read that it’s a usual ingredient in a lot of my facial routine products. Do you recommend to avoid lemon, neroli, orange, litseo or bergamota ingredientes in my facialcare products? Or i am missing something? Thanks!!! Great post!
Thank you for setting the record straight on Essential Oils. I am a soap maker and I have been using essential oils for years in my soap making. Sometimes it is for the scent but very often it is for the healing and well being properties of the EO. I have never had anyone complain about any EO in my soap. Regards, Leslie Pettie