Judging by Maggie Mahboubian’s skin, you’d think she were 10 to 15 years younger than she is. Seriously, the Lalun Naturals founder has retained that coveted youthful glow with nary a wrinkle in sight. And she knows one big reason why: she does not cleanse her face with water.
Intrigued, I had to dig further.
“Water-free oil cleansing is a skin saver for all ages and types because it follows the logic of how our skin functions,” she explained to me over an email and in person when we met at the Healthy Brand Showcase in NYC in March.
“Our skin produces oil (sebum) to help condition our skin, retain moisture, prevent too much moisture loss, protect us from the sun (sebum has a certain spf) and form a barrier against hostile bacteria. This slightly acidic environment (around pH 5) allows probiotic colonies to flourish which help protect us as our first line of defense. Washing with water strips the oil from our skin and changes its pH, making it more alkaline, thus inviting other types of bacteria that flourish in a more alkaline environment. In addition, bacteria grow in water but not oil.”
Could water be aging our skin?
Hmm…interesting because I was beginning to wonder how the different pH of water affects our skin too. My sister pointed out that every time she visits our parents in Florida, her skin starts to clear up. Of course, that can have a lot to do with other environmental changes too, but she’s convinced it also has to do with the water that she uses when she washes her face. It simply feels different.
I know from living abroad for five years that water can be harder in some locations than in others. For a more comprehensive explanation of hard and soft water, check out this article here.
According to this YouBeauty article, most U.S. water is hard and hard on our skin:
With over 85 percent of all water in the U.S. being hard, most American homes have to face the cold, hard truth: We’re covered in soap scum. And that soap scum is clogging our pores and contributing to breakouts. The problem with hard water is that its high mineral content prevents it from properly reacting with soap and, instead of triggering a lather, it creates a soapy layer on the skin. This not only clogs pores, but also irritates the skin, making it itchy, flaky and dry.
The post continues to attribute skin conditions like eczema and rosacea partially to hard water as well. Considering chemicals and toxins found in water, in addition to the pH and minerals, maybe too much water washing could be doing more harm than good.
Traditional ‘Oil Cleansing’ gets a makeover
In place of the traditional oil cleansing method that requires the use of a wet washcloth and warm water, Maggie uses her seasonally based toner spritzed onto a cotton pad or washcloth with a few squirts of oil cleanser.
“Oil cleansers function by dissolving dirt and make up,” she said. “Spraying a cotton pad or wash cloth with toner helps the oil glide better along the skin without washing it away. I use a wash cloth run under very warm water and rung out to help ‘steam’ open the pores before putting on a moisturizer [in the morning], but I don’t use it to cleanse the skin. Washing the oil with a warm washcloth would defeat the purpose of using the oil in the first place!”
My impressions of waterless cleansing
I’ve tried this method many times and am amazed by the way makeup effortlessly glides off with a few swipes of the saturated cotton pad. Even when I do this in the morning instead of washing, the amount of “dirt” that comes off when I use oil plus toner is noticeably different than when I use toner alone.
It does seem like my skin responds well to this gentler treatment, though I still have to let go of missing that “clean” feeling that I get after traditional water cleansing. However, when I feel like my skin needs to be treated gingerly, I do cleanse this way to give it a breather from my overzealous skincare tendencies.
With the current water crisis on the West Coast, I’d think that this method of cleansing would actually be something to strongly consider.
What skin type can use this method?
“Using this water-free oil cleansing method ‘normalizes’ all skin types, making the whole notion of skin type moot!” Maggie said. “It especially helps oily skin, because it breaks the cycle of oil removal which triggers the body to create more oil to compensate for the loss.”
Maggie added,
“When I don’t have enough time to cleanse and steam, this oil cleansing routine is hydrating enough that I can get away with not using a moisturizer! Bear in mind that I’ve been doing this for years, so my skin is probably accustomed to the routine—but another advantage of cleansing with oils!”
So it’s a time saver and product saver too. Getting interesting!
Lalun Naturals Spring Collection
When I went to visit Maggie at the Healthy Brand Showcase, I fell in love with her collection for Spring. Like I mentioned, she categorizes her different formulations by season, as the skin’s needs shift with the changing climate and require different treatment.
“Like plants, we are affected by seasonal changes that can lead to imbalances as our skin works hard to regulate differences in temperature, humidity and sunlight. My skincare is designed to help the skin get in shape and rebalance itself each season,” wrote Maggie in the description on the the Lalun Naturals Etsy shop.
The Spring Blossom Cleanser, $18, uses cold pressed safflower oil that has been sun-infused with Maggie’s own biodynamically grown flowering rosemary which is high in tissue regenerating ketones that invigorate the skin and promote cell turnover. The fresh floral notes that I fell in love with stem from petitgrain and grapefruit essential oils.
The Spring Blossom Toner, $18, is a mineral rich mist made with distilled orange blossoms, aloe vera gel, naturally occurring mineral salts, and honey.
I’ve been enjoying treating my skin to both and feeling cleansed and hydrated with a reduction in redness and clogged pores after use.
A line that’s as eco-friendly as it is pure
The products are made in micro-batches with many of the plants and herbs grown by Maggie in her own garden. Plus, Lalun Naturals is a ZERO WASTE company. She uses glassware and offers customers a 50 cent refund per piece. To redeem, simply save packing materials and mail back empties for a glass and postage refund.
Maggie wrote more about the topic of waterless cleansing here, in addition to a guest post for Edible Facial on making an eco-friendly lunch for kids here.
Of course, years of watching my beautiful, ageless mom remove her makeup at night with Pond’s cold cream and tissues taught me that waterless cleansing is not limited to using oil and toner. Other possibilities include Aurelia Probiotic Cleanser or a good cleansing balm as well.
Reblogged this on Lalun Naturals Blog and commented:
Sarita Coren’s thoughtful, thorough post on the subject of waterless cleansing includes an insight I’ve never considered in all my years of using oils, that hard water can leaved behind soap and dirt residue which can build up on the skin. This is HUGE!
Thank you for your thorough and thoughtful post on the subject of waterless cleansing. In all the years that I’ve used oils I never considered the effects of hard water and how it can cause soap and dirt residue to remain on the skin. Looks like it’s time for us to install that water softener and whole house filter!
Thank you for answering my questions and providing the material for a thought-provoking post, Maggie! XO
What a fascinating article. For the longest time, I’ve cleansed with a product that required water. I was always hesitant to try cleansing balms (such as the ones from de Mamiel, Aurelia, and Silkka Garden Apothecary that sound lovely) because I love the ease of use and relieving feeling of conventional cleansers. But, maybe the extra effort is worth it. Thank you for another wonderful brand introduction and stimulating read.
You’re very welcome, Megan. So, do you think you’ll be trying out a balm soon? So many great ones to choose from! It may be worth a try. XO
Definitely. How often would you suggest using them? I’ve heard many differing opinions.
Ok – I’m always on the look out for new products / techniques that might help my spot prone skin but I don’t really get it. Sorry, but could you explain in a little more detail. Say its my night time cleanse and I’m wearing SPF and makeup. Would I semi steam my skin with a warm wash cloth, spray a cotton pad with my toner then add drops of oil then sweep over face to remove makeup? I think I would need to do this a good number of times to make sure I had everything removed. Then no toner / facial spritz afterwards? Serum? Thanks
Before bedtime spray two cotton pads with toner (on both sides). Pump some oil onto each cotton pad then press and sweep the pads on your skin starting with the eyes. Allow the oil to dissolve dirt and makeup. You will see the grime come off onto the cotton pad. Don’t forget your neck and don’t rub. Just gently press and sweep. I usually turn the cotton pads over and continue pressing and sweeping until both sides are used. Blot excess oil with a tissue and go to bed. In the morning you can repeat the oil cleanse or grab a clean washcloth and run it under hot (not scalding) water. Wring it out and drape over your face. Do this three times until the pores have opened, then gently pat on a moisturizer. That’s it!
HTH!!!
A thought-provoking read, thank you Sarita for sharing. Very intrigued by the approach of Lalunn naturals.
In the morning, I stopped splashing water on my face like I used to, and switched to a cotton round spritzed with rose toner and my skin does look calmer now. I feel like each skin is different, and sometimes what works for one, may not work for another. On the one hand, French women have been using Micellar water that requires no rinsing (some people also enjoy the cavemen regime). On the other hand, some people have absolutely no trouble cleansing with tap water. In some cases, hard water is an issue, and filters definitely play a role in improving the skin and hair (I used a filter in the shower, and my hair looked less greasy and much healthier than before)
I believe in balance, I can’t see myself completely stopping use water to cleanse my face for now, because my skin has not been acting up. But if my skin starts reacting and becoming sensitive, I could totally try the no-water method 🙂 x
Thanks, Liz, for pointing out how individual our skin’s needs are! That is so true and important to keep in mind for any “advice” we read online. Today’s post is all about that, actually, so thanks for spurring me to complete it (started it in March! Yikes!) XO
Scintillating, Sarita…I remember watching an IntoToGloss video about cleansing where the woman used thermal water to prep her skin before cleansing (though she then did wash off with tap). Rinsing with water makes me feel more secure, though I suppose one could wash off with toners/hydrosols instead of water (but what a waste of beautiful ingredients!).
Yes, it does seem somewhat wasteful. I definitely wouldn’t use the expensive hydrosols or toners for this purpose. But there are a few that I was not in love with or that are less expensive that work really well. I wish that I could consistently try it out but I’m always cleansing differently every night! Skin care ADD, you know. 😉
I’ve been playing with oil cleansing a lot lately and love it!
It’s truly a lovely way to cleanse skin. It often reminds me of a vacuum that sweeps up dirt in its wake. Toning with a few squirts of oil leaves my skin extra clean without the dryness. I’m loving it too! 🙂
This is great and perfect timing- as I was just reading about how the PH of water can affect the skin – and that using a toner with the proper PH is better! Interesting read and line that I have not yet heard of.
mmmh. very interesting. I would think that your skin would feel a bit filmy afterwards. But I know that water can really strip it. I have to give it a try! xoxo
Very interesting perspective, but I think I’m still skeptical about removing the oil with a toner, and like Jade – what a “waste” of the toner. 😀 What I usually do in my routine is use a pH balancing toner (like ACV) immediately after the OCM method, and then follow with another hydrating toner before slapping on the face oils. 🙂