My two previous posts about balms here and here weighed heavily in favor of balms. Actually the compelling reasons to use a balm made most skin creams look like a ploy to get the consumer to shell out money on a product that contains empty fillers. That is clearly not the case.
I’ve still been using several creams that do work well for my skin. In a billion-dollar industry that is often rife with false claims, it was time to get to the bottom of the ‘Balms vs. Creams’ question.
I decided to turn to some of my favorite companies to find out why they choose a cream as delivery method as opposed to a balms. In their words below, you see the outcome sways back in favor of creams, but I do not rule out the possibility of both as viable options.
Katharine L’Heureux, Kahina Giving Beauty
- What advantages are there to using a cream vs. a balm?
Our skin is made up mostly of water. As oil and water don’t mix, the liquids, whether water, or in the case of our Night Cream, aloe vera juice, glycerin, and grape juice extract, in a cream create an emulsion with the oil allowing the active ingredients to penetrate more deeply into the lower layers of the skin. For the same reason, we recommend applying a hydrosol, such as our Toning Mist before applying oils. Because fluids aid in oil absorption. The liquid ingredients in our Night Cream are also working to hydrate and calm skin and to deliver powerful antioxidants.
It’s important for skin to be hydrated and moisturized. Emollients like oils or butters accomplish moisturization but hydration comes from water. Think about “dry skin” vs. “dehydrated skin.” You can have oily, dehydrated skin. What is your skin lacking in that case? Water. All the oil/butters in the world are not going to help you if your skin is dehydrated.
- Why did you choose a cream base and not a balm? Was a balm a consideration?
There is a place for both in our skincare line. The Night Cream was developed for nightly use (although many people love it during the day) as a deep moisturizer with serious anti-aging properties that will allow skin to breathe during its restoration cycle while you sleep. Balms are wonderful for protecting and healing surface layers of skin. We have a Hand and Body Balm that is great for moisturizing and healing extremely dry hands, feet, and elbows, and we will soon be introducing our Kahina Lip and Face Balm, which will be wonderful to protect skin during the cold NYC winter.
- How have you handled the issue of preservatives, emulsifiers, and additives that are necessary when water is an ingredient?
The primary preservative we use in our formulations is p-anisic acid, derived from anise, and rosemary extract. Our formulations undergo extensive challenge testing to ensure stability and shelf life of at least two years.
- You include many outstanding ingredients in the formula. Can you tell me about absorption of nutrients?
As I mentioned earlier, the aloe vera juice, glycerin, and grape juice extract, create an emulsion to assist with absorption of the resveratrol and the oils and plant extracts in the Night Cream.
Sarah Villafranco, M.D., Osmia Organics
The reason I use a cream is that balms just don’t work for my skin! I made our moisturizer in an effort to calm my perioral dermatitis, which goes nuts if I apply an oil serum or balm. The advantage of a cream is that it contains water, and actually moisturizes the skin. Balms and oils only soften the skin, and really need to be applied to wet or damp skin to have the maximum effect, helping seal in the moisture. If applied to dry skin, oils and balms just leave you, well, oily or balmy. The advantage of oils and balms is that they don’t need preservation, which is a sigh of relief. They only need antioxidants like tocopherol or rosemary extract to help prevent rancidity. We do make three oil serums, which are really lovely. But when you go into facial balms, you are using either a solid oil or a wax to achieve the firm consistency. I love that for hands and feet and elbows, but find that it’s a little heavy for faces. That’s just a personal preference, though. Some of those balms are dreamy and so lovely—but still best used on damp skin.
Sherylynn Gibbs, Sevani Botanica
Moisturizer creams contain water to replenish lost moisture in the skin and offer fast penetration of actives into the deeper dermal layer of the skin. When the skin becomes dehydrated, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) can accelerate aging, as our body is skin and body are mostly water.
Water based ingredients include teas, aloe vera juice, hyaluronic acid, B vitamins, glycerin, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, peptides, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), hydrosols, and more. These water based ingredients offer vital plant-based nutrients and antioxidants when incorporated into a finished product. Many of these ingredients are not oil soluble, therefore you will not find them in an anhydrous product (salve, lip balm, beauty balm, etc), hence the need for creams. Creams with glycerin and hyaluronic acid for example offer humectant properties which attract and bind moisture to the skin, preventing TEWL. Mild exfoliators such as alpha hydroxy acids gently dissolve skin cells promoting new cell growth thus refining the texture of the skin, minimize age spots and scares, stimulate collagen and elastin promotion (the fibers that keep the skin plump and firm), AND promote a radiant glow [as in the best-selling Sevani Botanica Rapid Renewal Resurfacing Creme]. These ingredients, when combined in efficacious levels offer a multitude of benefits.
Don’t ditch your creams or toners if you want to experience some exceptional benefits! Click To Tweet
Cecilia Wong, Cecilia Wong Skin Care
They each serve different functions and have their own benefits but I formulated my products in creams because they are more hydrating “humectants.” Since they contain water, they have moisturizing properties. They deliver water to the skin. Creams are much lighter in texture and get absorbed into the skin much quicker and at a much deeper level [as in Cecilia Wong Skincare Creams]. They can also be used all year round. As for balms, they tend to have a wax base and it’s best at protecting the skin. Not all skin can tolerate the heaviness. It can be troublesome for combo/oily skin complexions as the wax is pore clogging. It sits on the skin causing greasiness, more oil, and blemishes. Balms can also be too heavy or suffocating for sensitive, delicate skin.
Kelly Snyder, Queen of the Hive
Balms are protective and can be 100 percent organic (as they don’t contain any water or emulsifiers, it’s easier to make, easier to preserve) but they can also clog pores as they’re more of a protectant than anything. A cream is lighter, more moisturizing, and contains water and emulsifiers, which means it can’t be 100 percent organic (ours is 70%). I guess you could put the bee venom [found in the Face Contour Cream with Manuka Honey & Bee Venom] in a balm but it would probably make more sense in a cream, as a cream would ‘go further’ and is less concentrated than a balm. Also, as we wanted to make a cream that would be moisturizing and light instead of a concentrated balm. The bee venom works best in this medium.
Dr. Macrene, 37 Extreme Actives
A balm is a medicated salve and typically is used to connote a soothing medicament as opposed to an anti-aging cream. 37 Actives is the ultimate anti-aging cream as it delivers 50 of the world’s best anti-aging ingredients. It is not considered a balm as it is not meant as a soothing remedy, though within it are a number of anti-inflammatory soothing ingredients including bisabolol, the active ingredient of chamomile, organic feverfew, organic tea, organic coffee, and cacao extracts and barrier fortifiers of essential fatty acids and lipids, which all work in concert to soothe the skin.
Julie Longyear, Blissoma
Our skin has both oil and water components. Only some nutrients are oil based. Some are water based like minerals, MSM, allantoin, and Beta-glucans from mushrooms and oats. The water in a product can be useful because of what it carries if a company is caring enough to infuse it heavily with as many water based nutrients as it can hold. There are solubility limits but Blissoma packs as much as we can into our products.
Minerals are an often overlooked essential nutrient and skin hydrator. They are responsible for cell life processes and proper hydration balance. Oils don’t contain minerals. There are other nutrients like Niacinamide that also help keep skin hydrated in a different way than oils. Niacinamide is water soluble and helps rebuild skin’s ceramide layer, which helps prevent moisture loss throughout the day. It also stimulates cell renewal, reduces redness, and keeps acne in check.
And some emulsifiers like soy lecithin actually help ingredients penetrate further into the skin because they have such an affinity for cell membranes. I am not at all opposed to natural emulsifiers because they can really improve the absorption of various ingredients. You’ve tried our stuff—the creams absorb so beautifully and leave a gorgeous satiny finish on the skin. That’s partly because our emulsion system is carrying the product into the skin very quickly.
I love oils but it’s just one aspect of how to treat skin. I’m definitely not a fan of how some lines just use a huge percentage of only organic aloe as a labeling trick to up their organic percentage, or just water to save on money, but an ethical and quality oriented line is using that water to deliver a different range of nutrients and actives.
I agree with the benefits of balms as written up. For some people the lack of preservative system, and simpler formula may be awesome. But there are lots of people that benefit from an emulsion based product. Options are good, since people’s skin really varies in how it behaves.
So there you have it! What do you use? Balms, creams, or both? What brands are you loving right now and which ones would you love to try?
Another great, in-depth post. Thank you, Sarita!
I’m an oil and balm girl all the way, but have tried some really lovely creams (looking at you, Katharine / Kahina!) that have swayed me. For me, though, it’s a GIVEN to always apply my oils / creams / balms onto toned, damp skin. That’s just part of my routine, and always feels wonderful.
I do find it interesting that every single founder mentioned the body’s water content and why water (or aloe vera) based products deliver water faster. One to think about. For my typical routines, I save balms for daytime and winter, when cruel, harsh winds chap my face and I just need an extra layer of protection. I rarely use balms at night, and when I do, it’s selectively, like on my cheeks, to get some additional moisture.
I do think serums / oils / creams / balms can all play together nicely in a stellar skincare regimen. It’s all about smart layering and blending, which I’m really getting into lately!
I’m fascinated by layering products too. It’s like feeding the skin the nutrients that it needs. Though what pops into my head every time is: “less is more,” so my skin is telling me to lighten up but my fascination with products keeps me going. 🙂
Interesting perspective and insight. I am really a fan of this series! As well as the great brands featured. I have dabbled with both creams, balms, and oils before and feel my skin has worked with all formulations. As of late, I’ve been enjoying the use of balms and oils more but I always find I will spritz a toner beforehand.
Thanks, Megan. I’m so happy that you’re enjoying this series and really appreciate all your comments and shares! It’s cool that you intuitively knew to spritz toner before using the balms and oils. It does feel so good on the skin! XO
Nice post!!
I am definitely a cream lover during the day…I rather use balm/oils at night.
Litttle note: not sure 37 Actives is a 100% natural brand (as far as I remember…)
x
Yes, you are right. I’ve written about this cream before after having looked into the ingredients further. Ayla Beauty carries the line and I’ve discussed it with them. Because this cream is created intelligently and is not one to add unnecessary ingredients, I do keep it around. It is one of the few that works well for me. Nevertheless, generally speaking, I don’t use products containing some of the ingredients. Thanks for mentioning that point for discussion. XO
Just going to add the remarks I had written up during your research of this topic as well. 🙂
Our skin has both oil and water components. Only some nutrients are oil based. Some are water based like minerals, MSM, allantoin, and Beta-glucans from mushrooms and oats. The water in a product can be useful because of what it carries if a company is caring enough to infuse it heavily with as many water based nutrients as it can hold. There are solubility limits but Blissoma packs as much as we can into our products.
Minerals are an often overlooked essential nutrient and skin hydrator. They are responsible for cell life processes and proper hydration balance. Oils don’t contain minerals. There are other nutrients like Niacinamide that also help keep skin hydrated in a different way than oils. Niacinamide is water soluble and helps rebuild skin’s ceramide layer, which helps prevent moisture loss throughout the day. It also stimulates cell renewal, reduces redness, and keeps acne in check.
And some emulsifiers like soy lecithin actually help ingredients penetrate further into the skin because they have such an affinity for cell membranes. I am not at all opposed to natural emulsifiers because they can really improve the absorption of various ingredients. You’ve tried our stuff – the creams absorb so beautifully and leave a gorgeous satiny finish on the skin. That’s partly because our emulsion system is carrying the product into the skin very quickly.
I love oils but it’s just one aspect of how to treat skin. I’m definitely not a fan of how some lines just use a huge percentage of only organic aloe as a labeling trick to up their organic percentage, or just water to save on money, but an ethical and quality oriented line is using that water to deliver a different range of nutrients and actives.
I agree with the benefits of balms as written up. For some people the lack of preservative system may be awesome, and simpler formula. But there are lots of people that benefit from an emulsion based product. Options are good I think since people’s skin really varies in how it behaves.
so interesting! I am now using creams just during the day and only serums at night! My pores a lot cleaner since I made this change…
Your skin looks fantastic every time I’ve seen you, so keep doing what you’re doing! XOXO
Very insightful! I loved Sara V.’s comment about applying oils or balms to damp skin for maximum effect and to prevent skin from being too oily feeling. This is something I have always done and now I see there was a method to my “madness” lol. I love these posts – I always learn something new and to me..exciting! 🙂 xx
Yay! I’m so happy that you’re learning something new and exciting here, Sabrina. When the founders share their skin care knowledge, I find their lines even more compelling. XOXO
Reblogged this on Keep On Winking! and commented:
I always wondered what the difference was! Thanks to Edible Facial I now know there is a place for both!
I thoroughly enjoyed this Sarita, so very informative. I also love hearing from some of my favorite brands. Did Kahina say “new face and lip balm” … Experiencing palpitations.
xo
Right?! Such a teaser. Can’t take it! Xo
Great post, thank you so much for gathering and sharing this information.
This is great and has me thinking about my own regime. I’ve recently stopped using moisturiser in the morning, instead opting for a spritz of toner, my hydrating serum and some oils to seal it in. I’m finding I have less breakouts and much smoother skin. It certainly doesn’t feel tight any more.
Do you think the thinking around balms applies to oils too? That the oils will leave skin dehydrated?
It sounds like you found a routine that’s working for you, Sofia. With skin, balance is key. My approach is to listen to your skin. As long as it’s showing you good results, keep doing what you’re doing. Well-balanced formulas used sparingly should not dry you out at all. Hope this helps.
So happy to see this article and it’s explanation of why purified water, hydrosols, etc. are an important component of skin (and hair care)! Also appreciate the matter of fact explanation of the necessity for different methods of preservation systems for different types of products and that there are benefits to both balms and cremes. Great article!
My dear Sarita!
I never get enough of you and your beautiful blog! It’s so funny because I’m working on Skincare posts and I am doing a Balms post soon… I have such dry skin that I thought oils and balms were better for me. I was ready to ditch my creams…but thanks to you, I’ve done my research for my post…and will keep my lovely natural creams! Thank you! I have so much love and affection for you, big sis!
Best,
Alex xo
Hi, just found your blog 🙂
I wonder if you might want to dive a bit in to the preservative jungle and comment on it in one of your posts . I love natural skin care and at best organic, but being a researching buff, the more I read about the crucial importance of adding preservatives to skin care products, and especially a broad band preservative, if the product contains any aloe vera, floral / botanical extractions e.g floral water, floral / herbal infusions . It worries me , big time ! , that the common (mis!)understanding among makers, bloggers and users, seems to be that ‘no preservatives = good stuff’. This is an important issue, when the truth is that an unpreserved product may cause serious skin and health problems . Rosemary oleoresin and vit e are not preservatives; they slow down the rancidity / ageing process of the oils used. Nor are tincture of benzoin , honey and grapefruit seed extract preservatives. An unpreserved water containing product can in fact, if one is very unlucky, cause serious serious damage such as eye infections, toxic shock and atopic dermatitis. I think we all need some light to be shed on this misconception regarding preservatives in skincare products . Of cause I would personally love if no preservatives were necessary , but the truth is that they are. I think it would be amazing if a great blogger like yourself, would look into this rather serious matter and gently guide people through this jungle . Plus, also ask the brands when doing the interviews WHY they choose not to preserve their products properly ! In my eyes it’s like not really caring about your customers; loving but blind faith will not stop mold , fungi or at worst staphylococcus.
Sorry if I sound like a kill joy, not my intention at all , it’s just that this very common misconception actually scares me . and I’m not an easily super worried person 😉 . It ‘just’ feels like makers don’t do their research properly.
What is your view on this matter ?
Greetings,
Christina / Denmark
Hi Christina! What a wonderful and educated comment. Thank you for that and for your suggestion. It IS a topic that interests me and would definitely make an interesting post. I have asked a few makers to weigh in on preservatives and am waiting for them to have time to respond. In short, it’s tough! I don’t envy them their position. I do think they care but it’s possible they are not experienced or have not thoroughly tested their products. On the other hand, some just give their products an extremely short shelf life and call it a day–which is not good for the consumer. Now that you bring it up, I’ll happily work on something. Thank you again and hope you stick around for more. XO